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Dr. Energy Saver Dealers
United States
Приєднався 1 чер 2012
Dr. Energy Saver is the world's largest network of certified home performance contractors performing a full range of home improvement services to help make homes more comfortable and energy efficient.
We have dealers all across the U.S. Visit our website to locate a dealer in your area.
We have dealers all across the U.S. Visit our website to locate a dealer in your area.
Insulating Knee Walls | Making Finished Attics Energy Efficient in Cleveland
www.drenergysaver.com | 1-888-225-6260
Knee walls are usually present in finished attics. The sloped roof creates a small space that can hardly be used for anything other than storage or, in some cases, to house air ducts.
So when finishing the attic, builders usually build a small, finished wall to close that space, many times with small doors to allow access for storage, sometimes with no access at all.
The problem with knee walls is that, for the most part, the space behind them remains unconditioned and the knee walls themselves are often poorly insulated.
The soffit vents, built to keep the roof cool, allow a lot of air in the space year round.
During the summer, that compartment can reach scorching temperatures, and because it is improperly insulated and air sealed, that heat will be transferred to the adjacent room through walls and floor and to the rooms below through the ceiling.
Larry Janesky from Dr. Energy Saver, proposes a different approach to knee wall insulation. The knee wall system developed by Dr. Energy Saver includes that small space into the building envelope, while preserving roof ventilation. SilverGlo, a special type of rigid foam board lined with radiant foil on both sides, is attached to the bottom of the rafters with special fasteners. The seams are then sealed with spray foam to prevent air leakages. The idea is to keep the temperature in the compartment behind the knee wall, as close as possible as the temperature in the adjacent rooms.
The SilverGlo foam is infused with graphite for higher R-Value, and the foil liner will reflect heat back into the room during the winter and back to the outside during the summer.
For more information on the SilverGlo attic and knee wall insulation system and for tips on how to save a lot of energy and money visit our website or call us for a comprehensive home energy audit!
Knee walls are usually present in finished attics. The sloped roof creates a small space that can hardly be used for anything other than storage or, in some cases, to house air ducts.
So when finishing the attic, builders usually build a small, finished wall to close that space, many times with small doors to allow access for storage, sometimes with no access at all.
The problem with knee walls is that, for the most part, the space behind them remains unconditioned and the knee walls themselves are often poorly insulated.
The soffit vents, built to keep the roof cool, allow a lot of air in the space year round.
During the summer, that compartment can reach scorching temperatures, and because it is improperly insulated and air sealed, that heat will be transferred to the adjacent room through walls and floor and to the rooms below through the ceiling.
Larry Janesky from Dr. Energy Saver, proposes a different approach to knee wall insulation. The knee wall system developed by Dr. Energy Saver includes that small space into the building envelope, while preserving roof ventilation. SilverGlo, a special type of rigid foam board lined with radiant foil on both sides, is attached to the bottom of the rafters with special fasteners. The seams are then sealed with spray foam to prevent air leakages. The idea is to keep the temperature in the compartment behind the knee wall, as close as possible as the temperature in the adjacent rooms.
The SilverGlo foam is infused with graphite for higher R-Value, and the foil liner will reflect heat back into the room during the winter and back to the outside during the summer.
For more information on the SilverGlo attic and knee wall insulation system and for tips on how to save a lot of energy and money visit our website or call us for a comprehensive home energy audit!
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Sealing Can Lights | Saving Energy with Can Light Covers
Переглядів 123 тис.12 років тому
www.drenergysaver.com | 1-888-225-6260 Can or recessed lights are a popular choice when it comes to lighting fixtures. They are also a big source of energy waste in a home. Can light fixtures are typically full of holes and gaps which will allow your conditioned air to leak out of the conditioned area and into the attic. When the lights are on, the heat of a typical light bulb will create a con...
Installing a Radiant Barrier in the Attic | Alternative Method to Insulate the Attic
Переглядів 2,5 млн12 років тому
www.drenergysaver.com | 1-888-225-6260 To insulate an attic the conventional way, you need to air seal it from the conditioned space, seal and insulate existing air ducts, and line the attic floor with blown-in insulation. All of this is to be done according to the U.S. Department of Energy's recommended R-Values for attic insulation in the region, which in Ohio is between R-49 and R-60. That m...
How to Insulate the Attic | Air Sealing the Attic | Energy Saving Attic Insulation
Переглядів 247 тис.12 років тому
www.drenergysaver.com | 1-888-225-6260 A properly air sealed and insulated attic is the most important component of a green, energy efficient home. An inefficient attic causes energy waste in many ways. Due to a physics phenomena known as the "stack effect", the air inside a building moves upwards, towards the upper levels of the house. If the attic is unsealed, all the conditioned air that you...
Don't you have to have double (2layers) of 5/8" fireproof sheetrock over it? Who ever is planning on doing this, I strongly suggest you check your local building codes
What is the R value of the Radiant barrier 4:24 that you installed ?? I am assuming the size is 4 X 8 feet. How did you fasten the barrier Sir ??? Peace vf
“Almost impossible” to fix leaks after insulation is set? Nonsense. Do a ceiling map of lights and areas that need sealing. Then, remove insulation from those areas and seal.
Why would you want to make that crawl space into “ conditioned space” ? Dumb.
It's because it is a lot easier to make the insulated barrier along the roof line than it is to seal the barrier along the knee wall.
Wouldn’t you need to size your heating system then or the heat loss into your attic to heat your attic?
I'm in the process of insulating what will be a finished attic. Your advice is very helpful - seal air leaks, then insulate. If you'd like to comment on my approach I would appreciate the feedback. I'm doing a radiant barrier spaced 1/2-inch away from the roof boards. The 1/2-inch space will be an air channel to evacuate heat from the roof. The radiant barrier is then covered with a layer of RamBoard just for rigidity to ensure that air channel doesn't get closed up by the faced R21 I'm putting in the rest of the 2x6 rafter cavity. Ridge and eaves are vented. Thanks guys!
Is this relevant information still in 2024?
The principals still apply.
LIKE JOE AVERAGE COULD AFFORD THIS.
As Jill average…that is why I must and am doing it!
@@kennedyadams7159 SORRY FOR YOU.
The radiant barrier on the inside, also doubles up as a vapour barrier as you have now created a living space, where people will occupy and the humidity will increase.
This looks like it would be ridiculously expensive. A great idea though. I wonder how long it takes to break even??? I put radiant barrier in the roof of a two story house years ago. It was pretty inexpensive but I put a lot of effort into it. Then we moved to be close to our daughter and new grandson!! Oh well…
Wouldn’t your “heat” in the winter stay in the attic space
It fills in the area and doesn't leak out from this method.
@ so also insulate the attic gable walls? I wonder if a attic fan should be used to circulate the heat from the attic back to the living space in the winter?
I will love to see how you access those foam boards into the access hatch
Thats' great in your simulator. You're not in a house. Show us an actual installation.
How do I find someone to do this work?
Where is SilverGlo in Texas?
The installation seems straightforward for regular stick built roofs. I'm not too sure how that would work for pre-manufactured trusses. I guess it could be done but it would have to be a lot more difficult.
I don't want to heat the house. Let alone the attic
I doubt many builders go to this extent. This looks like a private build situation. It would be nice if it were we're required by code
Is it safe to say this product is not recommended for truss roof systems?
If a firework to start, how toxic is that material? Once that catches fire, how fast does it melt and spread?
Logical always nice. Unfortunately business isn’t 0r refused to be logical. Conventional builders aren’t scientific just conventional. Homeowners get what they ask for hmm. Sadly or luckily they are learning. Wonderful work to you and this project ter❤
Imagine being 140 degrees in thr south and the contractors here put your air handler and duct work in the attic.
Can I add an exhaust fan duct to an existing dryer ventilation duct?
I also bet it's dearer than poison too.
This rigid insulation looks like 4" thick, is that correct? What is the R-Value for this single layer?
Whats the fire spread and smoke?
This is DUMB! radiant barriers on both sides, one to reflect outside heat and one to reflect heat from inside, lol. Doesn't just one sheet of aluminium just do both jobs anyway?
these rigid foam things are flammable, they will burn rapidly. How's that not crossing anybody's mind? That foam is a fire hazard
Where can I verify your claim?
I believe they no longer do this for areas where storage or mechanicals as they learned that the product does not have thermal barrier rating by itself.
What would one of these cost to install presently?
Would this work in an unvented attic in Houston TX?
In addition. The weather is similar in SW Washington minus humidity during the winter/summers. Is it typically safe to close foundation events during winter without creating dry/brown rot. Wood rot conditions?
How is the use of this going to effect the wood trusses,Alex ventilation and plywood decking in the long run ? Does this create ice bridges from one bird block o the other ? Should each birdblock/truss tail ends be individually vented with the traditional ventilation holes in each bay ?
For a shop. I need to insulate the ceiling without a sheet rock cover. I was thinking fiberglass with foil.
Too much 😅😮.rediculous geez 🙄
Snake Oil. Retrofitting an existing attic space in most instances would be a nightmare or next to impossible to maintain a complete thermal boundary. Hip roof good luck.Interesting how these demonstrations are always in a clinical environment. Who lives in the attic? 50 years construction experience, 42 years weatherization, thousands of attic spaces. New construction is the time to attempt this if you plan to live in the attic.
Would it not make sense to put the insulation in between the rafter ?
Yes but more cutting and sealing.
if you have ducks in your attic doesn't the quacking keep you up at night?
I wonder if the insulation in this application needs to be fire proof to any particular standards?
These work
How do you cover the hip roof section to keep ventilation up the rafters? Do you have to add spacer wood?
How do we prepare the insulation of a metallic chimney before we put insulation everywhere ?
What if you only have gables and a attic fan? Will this still work?
I live in a story and a half, so our central air does not cool the upstairs. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I ordered two of these units because our upstairs is so long with tandem rooms. I just got these three days ago and hooked them up today. These are so much easier than trying to insert window air and needing a frame for them. The Black and Decker are made really nice (actually better quality than I had expected) , they were easy to install. I only had to cut a few inches off the end of window insertion. They are not as quiet as central air , but they cooled down the room really fast and I am very happy with them. The only downfall I would say , is they will require a little more space. Our rooms are quite large, so it was no problem. I would recommend these units to anyone.
Where do I get those???
Scammers
I called them and they said they don't do attics only crawl spaces?????
Why don't you guys talk about the second worst insulation called cellulose? It settles over time. I had 10 plus inches blown in with the height cards left behind showing how much was blown in. Recently installed security cams. All that new cellulose sank to the rafter tops were you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats stay put over time.
I can imagine this would cost about $10,000 or more
Why didn't they mention the R value of their product?